Thursday, January 31, 2013

Web of lies in Hampi



In a Holy place, once upon a time where two kings ruled, I found myself becoming embroiled in a right royal mess.

It had started off innocently enough, as these things often do, when I made the decision in Goa to be married. I’d read in my research that a marital status was an effective deterrent for unwanted and persistent advances from Indian men. 

Thus in the enigmatic and enchanting town of Hampi, I transferred my diamond dress ring from my right hand to my ring finger.  

As I was checking into the Hampi guest house, the local boys were quick to acquaint themselves.

Ganesh was a striking 25 year old who had fabulous cheekbones, a toned torso and slim hips.  He had a penchant for Bollywood films and I told him with looks like his he could be a film star.

He seemed quite pleased with himself and told me a French woman he’d met at the guest house said he could model in Paris.  Despite lacking height at around 5’8 Ganesh had that feline 'Avatar' look about him – a physical reference he drew himself.

Suffice to say, Ganesh knew he was hot stuff, but he spoke fluent English (not something I’ve found easily among the Indian people) and was funny and alluring.

The first night I arrived he took me on a ‘test drive’ on his Royal Enfield, otherwise known as the 'Bullet'.  

The Bullet is the crème de la crème of motorbikes in India and according to Lonely Planet, the envy of all Indian men who don't own one.

We zoomed around Hampi on Ganesh's Bullet and he took me to the lake to see the full moon and stars.  He showed me snippets of Bollywood films on his iPhone and video clips of a recent camping trip away with friends – including two Western women who were dating Indian men (one of whom is married to Rami – the guest house owner and Ganesh’s cousin).

Ganesh was trying it on with me and I was impressed by his persistence.  Down by the lake he planted the seed of seduction and it didn't take long for that seed to sprout full bloom.  

Our romantic shenanigans were being carried out in the utmost of secrecy. I was married and did not want the guest house staff (nor the Western travellers I had befriended who were the innocent victims in all this) to think I was committing adultery.

The secrecy worked in Ganesh’s favour – it opened him up to play others. 

“Single and ready to mingle,” he said.

Before long, Ganesh’s relationship history was revealed.  He had dated many Western women, lost his virginity to an older Canadian woman (he was 16 or 19? and she was 25) and he had an Australian girlfriend of some three years who had helped him pay for the Bullet (apparently they cost around $1200).

There was also Sian, a 20 something English rose who had come to India for yoga teacher training after a bad breakup in Cardiff.

During her time in Goa, Sian had met Lee, a pretty blonde from Canada and together they had travelled to Hampi where they had met Ganesh (and Lee’s now boyfriend of a month Pradeep).

When I met Sian she was clearly healing, still licking her wounds from the hurts of a cheating boyfriend she had been in a relationship with for more than four years.

But she was also intimate with Ganesh - a fact she kept from me until my last night in Hampi.

It was smoke and mirrors at the guest house and lies were circling. 

But truths were also being unravelled leading to inevitable disappointments and betrayal. 

It took for Greg, a Canadian eccentric, to amble across my path and jolt me back to reality.  This towering figure had rallied me up on my last day in Hampi  appearing out of nowhere to chat at one of the ancient temples.

I mentioned the Indian men and Western women getting together back at the guest house and Greg said these unions were common in India – he’d written an article about it.

“Western women travellers want a brown boyfriend in India, a black boyfriend in Africa, a yellow one in Thailand and the ultimate prize is to bag a Buddhist monk,” he said.

Little did he know I was the cliché.

While Greg was a little offbeat and candor, he made up for it in local insight and I was happy to pass over his idiosyncrasies in favour of his wisdoms. 

Having said all this I had already been warned about the Indian men from a friend I had dinner with in Melbourne before I came to India. 

My friend Sarah told me to watch out for it.  She had met an Indian man in the North, become romantically involved with him and they had spent time travelling together.  Once back in Australia, Sarah received an email from her Indian lover requesting money.

Ganesh had already been working me for money.  He said his family was poor but he had won a scholarship to study veterinary science at Melbourne University and wanted to go.  However on our second day on the Bullet, Ganesh told me he was feeling sad.  He had learned a considerable sum of money was needed for an ‘entrance fee’ to uni and his father – a lowly fisherman – could not afford it. 

Ganesh’s (false) intention was to study abroad and return to Hampi to set up an animal clinic.

But thanks to Sarah’s tale I was already onto the scam.

“I know what you’re doing Ganesh and I’m not paying for your university studies,” I blurted out.

While it didn’t necessarily feel good to put my foot down, it had to be done, and fortunately the force of my response helped silence anymore talk of study or animal clinics.

My time in Hampi was dishonest but it was also fun.

The place is completely bewitching with its sites cast in so much history and religious significance.

It does not surprise me I fell spellbound here in more ways than one. 

Ironically I also believe being married saved me from really tripping myself up.  

Towards the end of my three days in Hampi, Ganesh had backed off and was spending more time with Sian. He knew she was going to be the better bet.  And I couldn’t play any other card as I wore the protective guise of being married.

Ridiculously my last night in Hampi was sleepless as I lay in bed knowing Ganesh was spending the night with Sian (although they had been discreet about it).

Had I been truthful about my single status things could have turned out differently. 

I have a hunch Ganesh would have travelled further with me too (like Sarah with her Indian beau) and I suspect I would have fallen (the long held, ingrained pattern of adoring unavailable, beautiful men).

But as it were, I dodged that Bullet. 

And I hope Sian will be ok.  

She and I exchanged email addresses, her asking: “Are you on facebook?” but sadly I won’t be able to befriend her as she'll only learn I didn't tell her the truth.

It’s also not my business as to how those two will turn out.  I've 'let go' and am leaving the rest up to them.

As my wise friends have said to me before – sometimes a person has to figure it out for themselves.




Photo: Ganesh 

The son of Shiva and Parvati, Ganesha has an elephantine countenance with a curved trunk and big ears, and a huge pot-bellied body of a human being. He is the Lord of success and destroyer of evils and obstacles. He is also worshipped as the god of education, knowledge, wisdom and wealth.

Sunday, January 13, 2013

Memories and reflection



As I pack up six years of my life from living in South Melbourne I’m clearing out a lot of paperwork. Much of it relates to my public relations’ career; as well a ton of personal memento, like letters and cards from friends, old lovers and family; and of course, as one former boyfriend, Nirmal, used to name as one of the ‘three sure things in life’ –  taxes.  He said ‘death’ and ‘nurses’ were the other sure things, him being an obvious sure of himself doctor.

Among the pile of papers I've waded through is a writing assignment for my Graduate Diploma PR degree.  I only have it in hard copy, therefore my decision has been to throw away the hard copy, retype it, and post to my blog.  

The assignment was to write a feature piece based on the tone and style of an article derived from a magazine. We could find the article ourselves to base it on and I chose the piece: “On the death of my mother” by an American writer, Caroline Knapp.  Her story had appeared in Cleo magazine in August 1994. 

My lecturer wrote on grading my work a 'High Distinction': “Powerful and moving writing Caroline. Technically good, too.”

So let's see what you think (!) I’ve decided to chronicle it among my blog entries. Interesting that it comes so close to my blog entry mentioning my mum “Hello Mother”.  That’s just the way it is with mothers – you never forget 'em...!  

Unfortunately I cannot include a photo of mum as digital didn’t exist back then and I haven’t a scanner. Instead I’ve posted a picture of a Camellia flower. A camellia bush grew for many years outside mum's bedroom bay window in our beautiful garden in East Malvern and the blooms looked just like this one which she loved.

Written in 1998 – I was 23 years old at the time of writing.

On the death of my mother

Caroline James was only 21 when her soul mate – her mother – passed away.  Here, she lends an account of her mother’s life and suffering in the final days until death. And two years on, how she feels today.


On Thursday, July 25, 1996, roughly 7.40pm, my mother died. The time since has been like a vacuum, and not until now is the gap starting to fill. For the first time, I can write openly about it, without breaking down or fearing I will.

Time feels divided in two parts.  Before – with my mother, and after – without her.

The death certificate states sepsis as cause. But I know my mother died of cancer. It started in her breast in 1987 and like a creeping vine, spread under her arm to the lymph node and to her ribs and hip. After nine years, our worst nightmare became reality when malignant spots were confirmed on the lung.

My mother’s attitude was one of ‘living with cancer’ rather than dying.  I remember my friends’ reactions to the news – in the weeks/months following her death: “I never knew she was that sick” and comments such as “she always looked so well.”

Despite her deteriorating health, my mother lived life as usual. Yet usual to us, was very different to her. I remember in a rare moment, adding humour to the very serious, she shared how she felt: “You know when you have a shocking hangover? That’s how I feel 90 per cent of the time.”

Nonetheless, in all the time I knew my mother was ill, I seldom heard her complain. I once saw her cry. 

The never ending treatments, radiotherapy, chemotherapy, tamoxifen – took their toll on her physically. After chemotherapy, she lost her hair, and I watched her grasp and tug the last strands from her head, reluctantly placing them in her lap.

In the course of one year, my mother had aged ten. It’s noticeable in photos.  In a photo taken at her 50th birthday party, my mother shines; a head full of auburn curls, supple skin, sparkling eyes. You would never know. Photos taken six months before her death, paint a very different picture, one not so deceptive.

Yet her attitude, especially to her family, never changed. Travelling overseas shortly before her death, I stayed on because I could never detect anything other than ‘mum’ when speaking on the phone. 

Happy mum, funny mum, mum who was always there.

Her own mother is still alive. I’m 23, and a motherless daughter of nearly two years. The harsh reality seeps in because I was there. I witnessed, begrudging, the suffering and the dying, the shocking side effects of cancer treatment: the exhaustion, the vomiting, indigestion, constipation, muscle spasms, lack of appetite, mood swings – and the pain.

Although in constant denial, I knew.  At night, I would slide down between the sheets in effort to block it from my conscious, yet no matter how hard I tried to forget, the constant reminder was there. My mother’s bedroom was only two rooms away. The reality of loss is completely surreal to me. Previously, death was just a word, not an actuality.

I remember after visiting hours at the hospital one night, my father, brother and I left to have dinner at a Chinese restaurant in Little Bourke Street. We made meaningless small talk while avoiding any mention of my mother’s health. The reality was all too consuming. It was the first time our family had sat at a Chinese restaurant table together without my mother. Chinese dining is like an institution to my family.

The possibility she would never join our table again? No, mum still had so much to give to life and to us. Who would tell us what to do, how to do it and when? To ensure the iron and gas oven switch was off and the doors were locked?  In the structure of everyday life, my mother’s importance to ours was overwhelming. She, to us, was larger than life.

She carried with her a positive outlook all the way, even toward the end. I remember one day when I was crying at her hospital bedside, she turned and said: “What are you crying for? I ain’t dead yet.”

She defied the odds several times before. Like a rollercoaster ride she would be up and down, but always amaze us, and bounce back.  When the cancer spread to the internal organs, we realised things were looking grim.

On overhearing a telephone conversation between her nurse and specialist, she later told my father and me what had been said. Phrases such as...this one’s not long now...three weeks at the most.

Mum was presently at home. She had been in and out of hospital for months. As her condition worsened, further time in hospital was inevitable.

I must admit this time in my life is blurred. I was vague and carried a great sense of denial. This infuriated my mother – she needed me – yet I’d run the other way. I simply could not face death in the eye, especially hers.

On reflection, I swept a lot of grief to the back of my mind, under the carpet, somewhere where it could be hidden/forgotten.  But who was I kidding?  And who were the doctors kidding? Not once did they tell us that our mother’s life was nearing an end.

My father travels frequently with work and at the time, was due for an assignment in Cairns. The doctors did not advise him to stay in Melbourne; it was my father’s decision and intuition that prevented him from leaving.

The doctors gave nothing in the way of time-frame, and influenced by the ambivalence, I started a demanding job the week she died. I was completely horrified however, when they suggested a hospice. It had come to this? Ten years of fighting and the battle was to be lost.

We did not move her, she died before we could. Slipping in and out of coma, she was often confused and disoriented, largely from the morphine. I remember her giving me the strangest look one day, a look of ‘who are you?’ but then there would be something, a gesture, a word to remind me she knew.

Her state of mind was playing tricks; she would mumble and talk to herself, all the time wearing an expression of confusion and anxiety.  It was as though in the five days leading to her death, she had hit the replay button on her life, and her mind was reliving it, sorting through the last 52 years.

I believe mum died when she felt it safe to go. Her mother and sisters (who live in Adelaide) had come and gone. Her minister gave his blessing and afterwards placed his hand on her leg and softly said: “Goodbye Jenny.”

On her final day, my father had sat with her for over an hour during lunch. And strangely that night, I was the first family member to arrive at her bedside. Every other night I would walk into the room to find my father and brother sitting beside her. Tonight was different; it even felt different. The room was dark and mum was lying on the bed. I was shocked at her breathing. She drew breath loudly, gasped for air and then slowly exhaled. Only later did I learn that nurses call this “cheyne stoking”. My mother had hit the downward spiral and it wasn’t long to go.

I sat with her in silence, I was terrified by her breathing and in my mind I begged her over and over not to go – not without my father or brother in the room.

Time lapsed until finally between my tears I courageously whispered: “It’s okay mum, I know you can’t stay. I want you too, but I understand, you can’t stay.”

Where were my brother and father? It was so weird that they hadn’t come yet. Looking back, I believe they weren’t meant to be there. This was my time – my goodbye – alone with my mother.

It was to be my 22nd birthday in five days. I had wanted her to hold on, but that night I knew she had to go, sensed she wanted to. And in that time, before my brother finally entered the room, we had said goodbye.

Moments later William and dad arrived. I grieved also for my father and brother, both in their own internal mess. Mum knew how we were, I’m sure of it. I was so scared to witness her passing and I know she knew it (I think I’d even told her months before).

My father and I didn’t stay long after that. Despite our suggestion that he come with us, William was adamant: “I’m not going to leave her.”

Suspecting this to be the last goodbye, I reached out my hand and ruffled her hair.

“See you in heaven (repeating) see you in heaven darl.”

On the way home, my father and I stopped at a florist to buy our neighbour, Ann, some flowers because she had invited us to dinner.

At 8.10pm, we were about to leave home and go to Ann's when the phone rang. My father answered it and within seconds I knew, dad’s gasp from hearing the news on the other end confirmed it. She was gone. Dad handed me the phone. It was William.

“William, how did she go?” I had to be the strong one and refused to lose my composure.

“It was very peaceful, she went very peacefully.”

My brother’s relationship with my mother was a funny one, they adored each other but it was very love/hate. She tried to control my brother’s life and at every step, he rebelled and refused to listen.

Mum used to tell me: “It’s different with your first born,” the bond will always be there.

Two years before her death, William moved from Adelaide into our family home. He had been away from home since he was 12, at first living with my grandmother and then at boarding school. He came to live with us to spend time with mum. At this time, even though she had cancer for seven years, she was relatively well.

In flights of fury, he would scream at her: “I feel like I’m just waiting for you to die, and until you do, I can’t get on with my life.” 

Later that evening my father and I drove back into the city to say our last goodbye. Mum had always said to me that she regretted not seeing her father after he’d died.

I had made that promise to myself; that I would see my mother.

We walked into the room and William was sitting beside her, with a woman about mum’s age who had been visiting her for the past week or so. She later told me it was her job to visit the sick, but with my mother, she felt an immediate kinship. Mum had that affect on people, her infectious laugh and wide smile made even the coolest person feel warm.

Immediately I sensed the passing. The room felt different, and around me I felt her, the room was filled with her presence. She was on her back, head slightly tilted one side and mouth slightly open, lips in a faint smile. Her face was relaxed and eyes closed – she was at peace.

My brother stood and embraced me and within his arms I sobbed, releasing my sense of anguish – it was all over.

That night, my father and I dropped into some family friends, and we opened a bottle of red wine and talked and reminisced. It was a wonderful feeling to be among those familiar, and to be talking to those who really knew her.

William spent the night at his friends. The fact he was the one to see her go is very special to me. I knew I couldn’t be there, but I wanted her to go with someone and I think she wouldn’t have wanted it any other way. It was her time with my brother, to put the tumultuous past behind them and forgive. And love.

My cousin flew in from Adelaide the next day, and her mother (my aunt), arrived shortly after. The following week was a time for the family, where I was so appreciative of their support.

Five days later, it was my birthday. That night, early morning, I believe my mother returned. I was overwhelmed by an amazing sense of presence, much like I’d felt in her room after she had died. My cousin was sleeping with me and she felt it too. Mum had come to say hello and acknowledge my birthday.

Much has changed in the time since. I fell into a desperate dose of alcohol and cigarettes. Latching onto anything, anyone, that would ease the emptiness I felt inside. I was two people. I mechanically worked through the day like a robot, and at night would let the defences down, sinking one or two bottles of red to drown the misery.

The trend continued for six months, I later heard some rumours spread about me (from a friend in Adelaide). People were saying I had ‘lost the plot’ since my mother’s death. I briefly saw a psychologist, but was disenchanted when he wanted to concentrate on me, not her. All I wanted to do was talk of her; keep her alive – living – even though she was gone. I took to reading about grieving and death, and about philosophy; thoughts on life.

Dad followed much the same pattern. He travels extensively; I think it helps keep his mind on other things. But we talk about her, and refer to her frequently. Missing her.

My brother returned to Adelaide in January of this year. He left the job he “hated” and only took to “please mum”.

He has returned to complete a Bachelor of Arts at University and has strong aspirations to be a musician (he wrote, composed and sung “Hello Mother” at the funeral).

When you lose the most important person in your world, life takes on an entire new meaning. But slowly, the real world seeps back into your life, and you’re back on the treadmill with everyone else. Life goes on, so they say. I told mum I would return to study. And I have. I am with the same company I started with the week she died; I know she’d like that. Mum liked stability.